Category: Historical interest

Romantic Rhine – Part 1

We cruise from Rudesheim to Koblenz, the stretch of the Rhine that possesses possibly some of the most photographed castles in Europe, or the world for that matter. Some were built and served as fortresses, while others were palaces for the rich and famous.

Here is a selection. Some rather blend with their background. Others really stand out. Each has its own beauty and character. Captions appear under each photo.

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Castle ruins Ehrenfels

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Rheinstein Castle

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Reichenstein Castle

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Sooneck Castle

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Stahleck Castle

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Gutenfels Castle above the village of Kaub &Pfalzgrafenstein Toll Station

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Pfalzgrafenstein Toll Station overlooked by Gutenfels Castle

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Rheinfels Fortress

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Maus (Mouse) Castle

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and finally, straight from a fairytale,

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Marksburg Castle

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We experienced a quite dramatic change in the sky/weather, in the time (seven minutes) it took for us to pass Marksburg Castle. Perhaps the Weather Gods were smiling on us.

For those interested in the details of these and other castles in this part of the Rhine Valley, the website Loreleyinfo has excellent descriptions, history and current status, including use and opening times, where appropriate.

In Romantic Rhine – Part 2, we will share some of the other sights on this glorious stretch of the river.

Rüdesheim – Mechanical Music & Coffee

After a morning visit to Mainz, the cruise ship is underway again, its progress assisted by the rapidly flowing Rhine. It is not long before we arrive at our next port of call.

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We have been promised a train by our Tour Director, and sure enough, the Winzerexpress is chartered to take us, from the dock, on an orientation tour of the town.

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The Winzerexpress delivered us to the door of Siegfried’s Mechanical Musical Instrument Museum.

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We were introduced to the experience by a costumed hostess, and led through the exhibits by a well informed guide. What fun! What an experience! From the simple music box to the full orchestra. From early wax recordng, to clockwork, to wind and strings. Some were really quite loud!

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We could not help but notice the aged but interesting decorative ceilings in the building.

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After this amazing musical experience, there was time for a quick look along the shopping street, but we didn’t want to get wet! There was strong evidence of being prepared for the tourist trade, especially in the Christmas shop.

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However, we were filled with anticipation about our Rüdesheim Coffee experience.  Served in special cups, they start with local Asbach brandy, add sugar, flame the brandy, then add coffee, top with whipped cream and chocolate shavings. Think beer hall on a smaller scale, the venue was well and truly geared to the tour groups, with an effective production line.

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The wording on the drinking vessel is “Rüdesheim am Rhein, anno 1860, die Vatenstadt von Asbach” translated “Rüdesheim on Rhine, since 1860, the native town of Asbach”

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We also needed a translation of this plaque on the wall – “Interesting facts about the wine they find in our house”. That was all the prompting we needed – we purchased a bottle of the excellent local Riesling for consumption at a later date.

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……… and the last word, the verdict about the Rüdesheim Coffee …….. three out of four of us thought it was well worth €7.50 and ordered another.       Cheers!

Heidelberg

Our first glimpse of the Heidelberg Castle is from one of the narrow streets leading from the river up to the main street.

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We have learnt that the castle was built as early as the 13th century. It ranks as one of the most important Renaissance ruins north of the Alps. One resident was the ruler of the Palatinate and Heidelberg, Elector Friedrich V who, in 1613, married Elizabeth Stuart. She was the daughter of James I of England, and the marriage was one of political convenience to bond their two Protestant states.  Unfortunately for them, Catholic forces defeated Friedrich’s in 1622, taking possession of Heidelberg, and forcing the couple to live out their lives in exile.

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At a height of 80 metres above the old town, the castle has an imposing presence.

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Heidelberg is also known for Hauptstrasse, at about 1.6km, thought to be the longest pedestrian street in Germany. We are faced with a choice – to climb to and explore the castle, or to explore the shopping street. With rather limited time at our disposal, and some cravings for coffee, wandering the shopping street wins! We are not disappointed.

The coffee and cakes are indeed very good.

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There is something about watching a fountain when it is raining

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It takes more than a shower or two to deter the window shoppers on Hauptstrasse.

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The Church of the Holy Spirit was built over 150 years in the 15th and 16th centuries and faithfully restored after a fire in the 18th century. It was shared by Catholics and Protestants, sometimes simultaneously, over several centuries.  Now used exclusively by Protestants, the dividing wall was removed in 1936.

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Not far away, is the interesting facade of the Jesuit Church, built in the 18th century.

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Built as the home of a cloth dealer in 1592, the Hotel Ritter is claimed to be one of the most historically significant and artistically valuable houses in the town.

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It was nice to see a promotion to attract tourists “down-under”.

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Footnote: As Heidelberg is not on the Rhine, our afternoon excursion saw us taken by coach from Speyer to Heidelberg, while our cruise ship continued to Mannheim.  Our coaches took us back to the ship at Mannheim in time for dinner. 

At the appointed pick up point and time, our coach captain was rather concerned that his headcount was two short. It was then I received a text message

“Hold the coach, we’re coming!” 

The length of Hauptstrasse, and the attractiveness of its shops, had taken its toll on our travelling companions.